It was a long
and full day! I had originally
planned to do the Jewish Quarter today until I remembered that tomorrow the
museums are all closed so decided I’d go to the Buda side of the river so I could
do Castle Hill where the National Museum is located. Castle Hill is a bustling place even on a grey, foggy
January day! I took the metro and
bus to the foot of the castle and then walked up to the top of the hill. The path is cobblestone and there are
splendid views over the river to the Pest side of the city, although today one
had to imagine the buildings on the other side as they were just shadows in the
midst of the fog! When I got to
the top I had arrived in time to see the “changing of the guard” on Castle
Hill, featuring soldiers with bayonets and drums goosestepping around the
castle grounds as they changed posts.
I wandered all round the castle area and then moseyed into the town. There are all kinds of cute eateries
and shops and sites to see up there on the hill. St. Matthias church is a major landmark there. I wandered down the little cobblestoned
streets and climbed up on the fisherman’s bastion, a long row of huge, stone
lookout spires that poke up on the edge of the hill affording a great view out
over the river and over to Pest. I
then went to Ruszwurm, the oldest café in Budapest. It’s a charming, tiny little patisserie, furnished with
Victorian style furniture and featuring an extensive menu of cakes, pastries,
strudels, coffees, teas and hot mulled wine. So I had my lunch there, hot
mulled wine and caramel cake!!
I then went to see St. Matthias Church, which is beautiful, but undergoing major renovation right now so you have to step around the scaffolding and there are some parts of the interior you simply can’t see. I’ve posted two pics of the interior of the church and one of me outside with the church in the background. After seeing the church, I wandered back towards the castle and the National Museum. (I had to stop and buy batteries as I discovered that this new camera, which runs on 4 AA batteries, EATS them and within 90 minutes of leaving home this morning, the first batch were dead. Fortunately, I had bought a spare set last night so changed them while up on the fisherman’s bastion, but I figured I’d better always have a spare set at the ready. ) As I was wandering back along the little lanes towards the castle I saw a sign for Castle Labyrinth. I followed the sign and went down several flights of stairs to a subterranean labyrinth of caves. Apparently, these are the caves that were constructed under the Buda Castle centuries ago and were used to store food and wine, and occasionally to imprison captured enemies! There is a true labyrinth of passageways down under the castle area. It’s very, very dark and damp down there. They have turned it into a tourist venue, placing small colored lights along the passageways (which don’t do much for the pervading darkness I can tell you!!). They’ve also put wax figures in costumes in the various “rooms” along the passageways, depicting scenes from various operas and music from the operas is playing as you pass the various rooms! It’s really a scream down there! There were very few folks there today and for much of my walk I was completely alone. It was a tad creepy a few times. So I was walking along listening to opera playing and then came to a crossroads in the cave pathways. I went to the left and soon couldn’t hear the opera anymore and began to hear Gregorian Chant up ahead! I then got to another little alcove where they had the chant playing. This was truly a surreal experience. I wandered all around down there, doubling back at least once and then found myself down the path that led to the tomb of Dracula (historical figure, not legendary character!!) Of course the closer you get to Dracula’s tomb the more ominous is the music that is playing. It’s like being in a movie!! I’ve included a pic of the gargoyle that stands at the head of Dracula’s tombstone. I finally foung my way to the “kijarot” (“Exit”) although I had my moments of wondering if I’d ever find the way out! What a riot!
After that I
headed back to the castle grounds and then went to the National Museum, which
is Hungary’s biggest art museum.
It is a very large museum with floors and floors of art from renaissance
and baroque, through 19th century realism and up to the 20th
century and modern art. I liked
the “old” art best. They have some
truly stunning oil paintings from the 18th and 19th
centuries in there. My favorite
room was where they have a collection of gothic winged altarpieces. These altars were HUGE, made of wood,
very ornate and filigreed and full of paintings. Really impressive collection and simply a feast for the
eyes. You are not allowed to take
photos in the museum unless you pay extra which I chose not to do so no pics to
share of that stop.
By then, I had
been walking and sightseeing for a good five hours and was getting tired. My back was aching and my feet were
tired. I walked down from the Castle Hill to the banks of the Danube and got
the tram down to the Gellert Baths.
Nothing better at the end of a long day of sightseeing than soaking in
thermal baths. The Gellert baths
are right beside the Liberty Bridge.
They are somewhat more fancy looking than the baths I was at the other
day. The facility is enormous and
has the feel of a Roman or Turkish bath.
High tiled ceilings, dim lighting, opulent pools and thermal baths. Their outdoor bath was closed for the
winter so everything was indoors.
I soaked in the hot baths for a little over an hour and took a few turns
in the steam room too. By the time
I left I was no longer achy or sore as I had been when I went in. This facility is a bit more touristy
than the other one. I actually
liked the other one better, as it was outdoors and more frequented by
locals. But the warm waters felt
good to my tired and aching body today so I wasn’t complaining! I walked back across the Liberty Bridge
(pic included) and went back to my For Sale pub for dinner. I really enjoyed that place and you can’t beat the price. I got a pork stew “paprika style”. I’ve included a pic! Honestly, their portions there are
enough for at least 4 people! Then
I walked back to my apartment and was glad to be “home” after a long day
out! Now it’s time for G&T!
No comments:
Post a Comment